Along the rocky coastline of Sliema, the Mediterranean Sea has become something extraordinary: a public swimming pool without walls, opening hours or membership fees. During the ESWAM study visit to Malta, representatives from European cities encountered a series of small bathing pools carved directly into the limestone. Some visitors stopped to admire them, while others were already enjoying the water. There were no elaborate changing facilities or expensive architectural interventions. Just the sea, the rocks, a few metal ladders and people making use of a remarkable public space. It was a reminder that creating opportunities for physical activity does not always require building something new.
Known locally as the Roman Baths, the pools at Fond Għadir have a fascinating history. Despite their name, they do not date from Roman times. Their origins lie primarily in the late nineteenth century, when Malta was under British rule and seaside bathing became increasingly fashionable. Wealthier residents had shallow pools carved into the limestone, often close to their summer residences. These were originally private spaces, reflecting Victorian attitudes towards modesty and recreation. Wooden structures, canvas coverings and carefully positioned screens provided privacy, particularly for women. What today appears to be an open and informal swimming environment was once shaped by social status and restrictive cultural expectations.
The ingenuity of their design remains impressive. Rather than constructing conventional swimming pools, their creators worked with the existing coastline. Shallow basins were excavated from the soft limestone, with narrow channels allowing seawater to circulate naturally. Steps made entering the water easier, while the surrounding rock provided some protection from waves. The pools were sufficiently shallow for people who were not confident swimmers, creating a different experience from swimming directly in the open Mediterranean. More than a century later, the same basic design continues to attract people seeking relaxation, exercise and a refreshing connection with the sea.
Perhaps the most remarkable transformation is social rather than architectural. Spaces originally created for relatively privileged users have become part of Sliema's public coastal landscape. Residents and visitors can enjoy the water without joining a sports club or paying for an expensive facility. Swimming becomes something spontaneous, accessible in principle and closely connected to everyday life. In a European context where municipalities are searching for ways to remove barriers to physical activity, this simplicity is powerful. Sometimes the most effective invitation to move is not a programme or campaign, but an attractive place that people naturally want to use.
The surrounding promenade adds another dimension. Sliema has developed into one of Malta's most densely urbanised coastal areas, with residential buildings, hotels, restaurants and commercial activities competing for limited space. Yet its waterfront continues to function as an important public environment for walking, social interaction and recreation. The Roman Baths extend that public realm directly into the sea. They demonstrate how the boundary between urban infrastructure and the natural environment can become an opportunity for wellbeing rather than simply a geographical limitation.
There is also an important environmental argument. According to the European Environment Agency, 85% of designated EU bathing waters achieved excellent quality in 2025, while 96% met at least the minimum standards. Malta performed comparatively well, with 88.5% of its coastal bathing waters classified as excellent. These figures demonstrate the value of long-term European investment in wastewater treatment, environmental monitoring and water protection. Clean water is not merely an ecological achievement. It is a public health resource that enables swimming, recreation and physical activity. For cities considering how to reconnect residents with rivers, lakes and coastlines, environmental quality is a fundamental starting point.
“The future of active cities may lie in rediscovering the spaces we already have.”
However, Sliema's bathing pools also reveal the limitations of celebrating historic infrastructure without considering its future. A 2025 investigation by MaltaToday highlighted continuing coastal erosion and the absence of a comprehensive conservation strategy for these distinctive structures. An earlier study commissioned by Sliema Local Council in 2007 had already warned that winter storms and erosion were damaging the pools. Their historical significance has not automatically translated into adequate protection. This raises an important question for municipalities: what happens when valuable public spaces are appreciated by residents but remain vulnerable because no organisation takes sufficient responsibility for their long-term preservation?
Accessibility presents another challenge. Although metal ladders and carved steps provide access for many swimmers, uneven limestone, slippery surfaces and changing sea conditions can create serious obstacles for older residents and people with disabilities. The pools are not universally accessible simply because they are publicly available. Strong waves, changing weather and the absence of supervision at individual pools also require caution. Improving access while respecting the character of a historic coastal environment demands thoughtful design, careful maintenance and a willingness to balance heritage conservation with contemporary expectations of safety and inclusion.
For European cities, the relevance extends far beyond Malta. Coastal municipalities such as Dublin, Copenhagen and Waterford face their own questions about sea swimming, waterfront accessibility and the relationship between public space and physical activity. Inland cities can draw similar inspiration from rivers, lakes, former harbours and other underused waterside environments. The principle is transferable: rather than automatically creating new infrastructure, cities can identify existing places with the potential to support healthier lifestyles and give them renewed purpose.
The Roman Baths of Sliema are not a perfect model, nor should they be romanticised. Their origins reflect historical inequality, their physical accessibility remains limited, and their survival requires attention. Yet precisely these contradictions make them valuable. They show how places can evolve beyond their original purpose and acquire new social meaning. They also remind us that heritage preservation, environmental protection and public health should not be treated as separate ambitions.
As European cities invest millions in new sports facilities, Sliema offers a different perspective. Some of the most meaningful opportunities for movement already exist within our landscapes, our neighbourhoods and our history. The challenge is to recognise their potential, protect what makes them special and ensure that more people can enjoy them. Sometimes, the future of an active city begins with rediscovering what has been there for generations.
John Pillow Mayor of Sliema